One of the advantages of having a fairly well-stocked pantry, especially if you live outside a tiny little town in rural Mississippi with no specialty grocery stores, is this:
Mr. Big Food: Do we have any chestnuts?
Me: Hum. Hang on. … Here you go!
It was quite tasty!
“Chestnut Purée” —Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume One by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck (1961/1970)
“If not to be used immediately, instead of beating in the butter, spread it over the surface of the purée. To reheat, cover and set over boiling water, beating occasionally.”
PURÉE DE MARRONS
For 6 to 8 people
8 C chestnuts, peeled (see instructions in Marrons in this section)
2 stalks celery
A medium herb bouquet: 4 parsley sprigs, ½ bay leaf, and 1/8 tsp thyme tied in cheesecloth
3 C brown stock, “good” (preferably homemade—see recipes in Basics section—or use 2 C canned beef bouillon and 1 C water)
3 to 6 Tbsp butter, softened, or butter and whipping cream
Salt, pepper, to taste
Pinch sugar, “if needed”
Place chestnuts, celery stalks, and herb bouquet in a 3-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan, pour in enough stock to cover chestnuts by 1½ inches, and simmer “very slowly and uncovered” for 45 to 60 minutes, or until chestnuts are cooked through. “Do not overcook and allow them to become mushy.” Drain immediately, removing celery and herb bouquet, and reserving cooking liquid, and purée chestnuts in a food mill. Return chestnuts to saucepan. Beat in butter, or butter and cream mixture. “If purée is too thick, beat in spoonfuls of the cooking liquid.” Season with salt and pepper, and “a pinch or two of sugar if you feel it necessary.”
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