“For our version of this Nashville classic … chicken is tenderized in spiced buttermilk, twice-fried, and then slathered in a fiery paste. Adjust the heat by adding as much—or as little—cayenne as you like.”—Saveur 166 (June/July, 2014)

NASHVILLE HOT CHICKEN WINGS

3 C buttermilk
¾ C cayenne
9 Tbsp granulated garlic
9 Tbsp paprika
6 Tbsp onion powder
3 Tbsp sugar
3 lb chicken wings
Salt (preferably kosher), black pepper (preferably freshly ground), to taste
Canola oil, for frying
2 C self-rising flour
6 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted
Sliced white sandwich bread, dill pickle chips, for serving

Combine buttermilk, ¼ C cayenne, 3 Tbsp garlic, 3 Tbsp paprika, 2 Tbsp onion powder, and 1 Tbsp sugar, whisk until smooth, add chicken, toss to coat, cover, and chill at least 4 hours up to overnight. Next day, drain chicken, rinse, pat dry, and season with salt and pepper. Heat 2 inches oil in a 6-quart saucepan until a deep-fry thermometer reads 300˚. Stir remaining ½ C cayenne, 6 Tbsp granulated garlic, 6 Tbsp paprika, 4 Tbsp onion powder, and 2 Tbsp sugar together, transfer half of cayenne mixture to another bowl, whisk flour into one half of cayenne mixture, reserving other half, ad working in batches, dredge chicken pieces in flour mixture, reserving remaining cayenne mixture and remaining flour mixture after dredging chicken, and fry chicken until golden and almost cooked through, flipping once, 6 to 7 minutes, “or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of thigh reads 150˚. Transfer chicken to paper towels. Increase oil temperature to 350˚. Stir together reserved remaining cayenne mixture and melted butter. Dredge chicken once more in flour mixture and fry until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes more, drain briefly on paper towels, and brush with cayenne paste. Serve with bread and pickles.