“Pepperpot is a patriotic dish originating in Pennsylvania and still much served in Philadelphia. It has a romantic history to tell. It was that bitter winter at Valley Forge; George Washington’s soldiers were in rags, food was ever lacking. Cooks made ends meet where there was nothing but ends and they met just over the starvation line. Soldiers began to think longingly of home; desertions were frequent. General Washington put his faith in the inner comfort of man. He called the head cook of the Revolutionary armed forces and explained the seriousness of the hour. He demanded a stomach-filling dish. The chef protested.

“I have only tripe, a few hundred pounds, the gift of a nearby butcher. I have peppercorns the gift of a Germantown patriot; all the rest is but scraps.”
“From nothing,” said the general, “you must create.”
By early dark great pots sent up a heartwarming comforting fragrance. Came the bugle call, men ate their fill of the fortifying food. They laughed again. They joked, “Bring on the redcoats.”
The general called for the cook. “This dish is the stuff of heroes, what is its name?”
“I have conceived it but not called it,” the cook replied. “But Pepperpot would be my humble suggestion, sir.”
“Call it Philadelphia Pepperpot,” said the general, “in honor of your own home town.”
In old years this savory soup was hawked through the Philadelphia streets by Negro women calling “Peppery Pot, smoking hot,” dipping it from milk cans covered with snowy white towels.
Cooks argue what to put in, what to leave out. Tomatoes is our recipe, but these certainly were missing in the original for then tomatoes were known as love apples and were considered dangerous eating.”—Clementine Paddleford, How America Eats (1960)

PHILADELPHIA PEPPERPOT

Yield: about 8 portions

¾ lb fresh honeycomb tripe, washed thoroughly, cut into ¼-inch cubes
2 lb knuckle of veal
3 quarts cold water
1 small bunch parsley
10 whole cloves
16 peppercorns, crushed
¼ tsp marjoram
¼ tsp savory
¼ tsp basil
¼ tsp thyme
3 ball pepperc, cored, seeded, chopped
3 medium onions, chopped
3 medium beets, chopped
3 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp salt
1/3 C uncooked rice
1½ C stewed tomatoes

Place tripe cubes in pot with veal knuckle and cold water, heat slowly to boiling point, and boil 10 minutes, skimming, then cover and simmer gently for 2 hours. Tie together parsley, whole cloves, crushed peppercorns, marjoram, savory, basil, and thyme in a cheesecloth bag, add to mixture in pot, cover, and continue slow cooking for 1 hour more. Remove bag. Sauté bell peppers, onions, and beets in butter until lightly browned, add salt, then add mixture to pot, cover, and simmer 30 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook 10 minutes. Remove veal knuckle and cool soup. Skim. Reheat before serving.