Many lands as well as many sections of America have special “lucky” foods and pastries which are served on New Year’s Day. In Holland, for example, when a Dutch lad goes a-courting on New Year’s Day, he takes his sweetheart a pastry made in the shape of her initials. In Scotland, “Hogmaney” dumplings are customarily served on New Year’s Day, etc. Among the lucky recipes served in various sections of the United States on New Year’s Day, is this pea (bean) dish from the Carolinas. It is an old Southern custom to serve it on New Year’s Day at the noon dinner, a ten cent piece being added to the big bowl of peas just before it is brought to the table. The person finding the dime in his or her plate will have good luck all year. The recipe is called “Hopping John.” Whence the name came nobody exactly knows, but it is very popular in the South.

Master Chef Louis P. De Gouy, The Gold Cook Book (1947)

“When ready to serve, the rice and pea-beans are served separately. A mound of rice is first placed on each plate, the peas poured over it, and a dish of stewed canned tomatoes is served separately.”

HOPPING JOHN OF THE CAROLINAS

1 lb black-eyed peas (“called black-eyed beans almost everywhere else except in the Old South”)
Cold water, plus more boiling
¾ lb salt pork, parboiled, cubed
½ tsp salt (“more or less, according to the saltiness of pork”), plus more for seasoning rice
1 large bay leaf
1 medium onion, sliced
8 peppercorns, ground fine
1 C rice, washed
White pepper

Place beans in a saucepan or kettle, pour in cold water to cover beans by 2 inches, add salt pork cubes, salt, bay leaf, onion, and pepper, and cook until beans are tender, adding additional boiling water “to keep the peas quite moist.” While peas are cooking, shake washed rice into 2 ½ quarts salted, rapidly boiling water, and when rice is tender, drain in a colander and rinse under running hot water. Season rice with salt and white pepper to taste. Serve as directed above.