Dr. William M. Mann, Director of Washington’s National Zoo, is on speaking terms with every one of his 2,800 animal wards—even though his specialty is ants. He has penetrated some of the least-known parts of the world to learn more about ants and to collect wild game.

His collections are more varied than the public knows. His secondary interest is collecting recipes. Gray-haired, stocky Dr. Bill Mann takes time out always to investigate the foods of the land he visits. He eats of native dishes with an observing eye, with a curious palate. Invariably he can guess the ingredients. Home again, the Doctor tries reproducing these dishes, searching foreign shops for exotic seasoners and odd groceries, then to prepare a little dinner to amaze his friends.

Mrs. Mann once thought of writing a book about her husband’s recipes but he hasn’t any. She said, “The trouble is, Bill cooks off the top of his head, beautifully and comprehensively inexact.”

Mexican dinner is one of their most applauded. Turkey broilers for this, prepared in a sauce made with mole powder—a below-the-border seasoner you can buy in Spanish stores, but with chilis, containing some 20 balanced herbs and spices. Black beans with rice, in the Cuban manner, go with this dinner. Tortillas take the place of bread. They are sold fresh in some cities ready to toast or fry; also sold canned in Spanish stores. Garlic bread might be served instead.

Clementine Paddleford, How America Eats (1960)

BLACK BEANS CUBAN STYLE

Yield: 4 to 6 portions

1 lb black kidney beans or black-eyed beans, washed, picked over, covered with water and soaked overnight, drained
Water
1 Tbsp salt, plus an additional 1 tsp
1 clove garlic, cut in half, plus an additional 3 cloves mashed
½ C oil
3 bell peppers, cored, seeded, chopped
3 medium onions, chopped
½ tsp ground sage
2 bay leaves, crushed
3 Tbsp cider vinegar
Pepper to taste

Place drained soaked beans in a kettle, pour in fresh water to cover, add 1 Tbsp salt and garlic halves, and cook beans until tender, about 3 hours, adding more ware as needed. Just before serving heat oil in a skillet, add additional 3 cloves mashed garlic, bell pepper, onion, sage, and bay leaves, and cook until vegetables are soft. Add vinegar, additional 1 tsp salt, and pepper. Place beans in a serving dish and pour vegetable mixture over all.